Challenging the notion that one cannot return home, Maryam Nassir Zadeh defies this adage by choosing her parents’ Los Angeles residence as the backdrop for her fall look book. This visually encapsulates a profound conceptual journey the designer has undertaken, wherein she evaluates her business and life by revisiting cherished places and reexamining beloved elements with fresh eyes.
In her previous spring showcase, Zadeh took a bold step, assembling precious pieces from her vintage textile archive with minimal cutting or sewing—an audacious move in line with the trend of simplification and a noninterference approach to design. However, this fall, Zadeh strikes a balance, finding herself on middle ground.
Explaining the inspiration behind the collection, Zadeh shared, “We got inspired by the idea of building a core collection, which we had never done before.” The assortment features essential pieces, from her iconic backward pants to leather bombers, greatcoats to kilts, all crafted from materials like pinstripe and corduroy. These timeless items reflect Zadeh’s enduring relevance and her desire for customers to return to them repeatedly.
While perusing her clothing archive at her childhood home, Zadeh stumbled upon her RISD portfolio and pieces from her earliest collections. To her surprise, these garments and textiles not only appeared relevant today but fueled her determination to deepen her connection with her craft. “I really want to create textiles and make clothing that has a richness of texture and life to it,” she expressed.
This sentiment is vividly realized in pieces like the ribbon-stuffed wiggle dress, exuding joy. Some are whimsical one-offs made from vintage materials, like a bead-draped sash, while others, such as an embellished stretch-lace bodysuit, will enter production. Paired with asymmetric laced leggings that embody the brand’s distinctive offbeat charm, these pieces stand out.
In a contemplative mood, Zadeh sets her own rhythm this season. Reflecting on the post-lockdown era, she notes a shift in our relationship with time, emphasizing the prevailing speed. Unconstrained by the need to align with the industry’s pace, she deliberately opted out of New York Fashion Week. Zadeh embraces a slower approach, asserting that sometimes, doing less is more.
Her decision to present collections publicly at her discretion aligns with the nostalgic turn her work has taken. She believes that what one needs can be found within oneself, stating, “Some things are just part of you, and some things are where you start, and then even if you go far, you still arrive back to where you began.” Zadeh’s collection, steeped in déjà vu, possesses the potential to transport individuals to unexplored realms.