Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s spring collection is intricately woven with the threads of her evolving relationship with time, both by choice and circumstance. This phase of restlessness began with her spring 2023 collection, a creative collage derived from her textile archive. Employing no-sew techniques, she crafted experimental pieces not intended for sale, introducing a sense of spontaneity and a return to fashion’s fundamental purpose as a basic covering. As she embarked on the design journey for fall 2023, Zadeh delved into her parent’s archives, continuing her process of rediscovery. Now, with the spring 2024 collection, she appears to have found her equilibrium, poised between the echoes of the past and the possibilities of the future.
Reflecting on her early design experiences, Zadeh acknowledged her penchant for rapid changes and experimentation in her twenties. However, as she matured, she realized the importance of stability in design, recognizing that consumers prefer a certain consistency. Drawing from this insight, the new collection is a harmonious blend of remixes, resurrecting pieces like a cardigan from the brand’s inaugural season, alongside new creations.
Zadeh’s ability to infuse a covetable allure into seemingly simple pieces, such as semi-sheer knits, a silk tunic, and ribbed melange tanks, remains a captivating mystery. One standout piece in the collection is a versatile wrap inspired by a ’90s cover-up worn by Zadeh’s mother. This easy-to-wear scarf-topped skirt, convertible into a dress, exudes vacation-ready vibes with a touch of the effortlessly cool Lower East Side aesthetic synonymous with Zadeh’s work.
The collection, named “Rush,” embodies its title, having been shot and styled hastily after a last-minute release from customs. This unexpected circumstance forced Zadeh to relinquish some control and embrace the spontaneity of the moment, working within the available time frame and with the pieces at hand. In an era dominated by carefully curated selfies and outfit pictures, Zadeh’s aesthetic serves as a reminder that playing with fashion for the sheer joy of it can still deliver a thrilling rush.