Until now, Julien Dossena’s Paco Rabanne collections have predominantly reflected various facets of his modern-romantic vision of French girls in the ’70s and ’80s—garments tailored for lively parties and disco nights, often infused with hints of ethereal off-world futurism. Thus, it came as a surprise in the Paco Rabanne’s spring 2024 ready-to-wear collection when he diverged from this theme, introducing a discourse of “chaos, a little violence, and anger,” along with the notion of “radical sensuality.”
In an unconventional setting with a gridded metal runway, models strutted in robust combat boots adorned with heavy chains, donning babushka headscarves embellished with metal grommets. The wardrobe featured materials like latex and lace in vibrant hues, complemented by intense black tones and bondage harnesses. The accompanying soundtrack echoed a woman’s voice repeatedly proclaiming, “I’m going to make you sweat.”
The Paco Rabanne Spring 2024 ready-to-wear collection marked a departure from the carefree and hedonistic disco vibes of the past. The collection showcased the brand’s expertise in crafting garments that drew inspiration from the traditional playbook of subversion, featuring elements such as grunge slips, punk kilts, fetish rubber, and raincoats with a wipe-clean finish, all intertwined with the iconic silver chain mail associated with the house.
Dossena attributed this shift to his response to global events, particularly the conflict in Ukraine and recent developments in the United States regarding abortion rights. While he acknowledged the possible influence of distressed Ukrainian grandmothers, he described the headscarves as a fusion of “Queen Elizabeth and fetish.”
The intentional toughness in the collection aimed to convey a sense of impending conflict and the need for resilience. As Dossena explained, “It is about this feeling that there’s going to be a fight, and it is going to be a long one. So, it is about expressing that passion and providing clothes for the moment to prepare to fight, because that’s what it is about: no apologies.”