Julien Dossena transported Paco Rabanne to another worldly realm with his spring ready- to-wear 2024 collection, envisioning gilded Amazons and inter-galactic empresses reminiscent of glittering classical goddesses. Speculating on the inspiration, Dossena pondered whether it was a fantastical planet or the vibrant Ibiza of the ’70s—a period synonymous with Paco Rabanne’s aesthetic.
In this opulent domain, quiet luxury was a foreign concept, drowned out by the resplendence of gold, silver, and maximal texture. Dossena, however, didn’t converse in the language of subdued elegance; instead, he let his imagination soar, exploring techniques that pushed the boundaries of his creative vision.
The collection retained signature elements like slinky metallic, fringed micro-tunics, and draped hoods, but Dossena’s influence on Rabanne surpassed the iconic chainmail invented by the brand’s founder.
Non-mesh fabrics took center stage, with notable instances of intricate draping, such as a black sari-like dress that defied conventional beginnings and endings. The artisanal touch was evident in the shaggy wool fringing, displaying an intensity that contrasted with the ethereal, frosted paillette-covered surface of a futuristic pajama suit.
In certain moments, the collection transcended the realm of ready-to-wear, approaching the intricacy of haute couture. This transformation could be attributed to Dossena’s experience working with haute couture ateliers at Jean Paul Gaultier during the summer.
Regardless of the influence, it is apparent that Dossena is shaping up for a remarkable year, with this show poised to elevate his name further within the coveted fashion sphere.