The singer-songwriter Moses Sumney caught attention while striding up Bowery in an oversized, meticulously stitched jacket, complemented by Do’s platform boots, adding extra height to his 6’3″ frame. The sighting hinted at a new direction for the designer, who, after three years in womenswear—two marked by the pandemic—is expanding into menswear. The unveiling of this transition began with the show, where a men’s look took the spotlight: a double-breasted jacket, secured with a single button over a white shirt, both featuring a bold triangle cutout revealing a glimpse of a muscled back.
Paired with full satin pants boasting open side seams tapering at the ankle, and Do’s iconic boots, the ensemble was modeled by Lee Jeno from the K-Pop group NCT, boasting 3.4 million Instagram followers. The entrance of celebrity influencers aside, the meticulous and methodical approach of Do is central to his ambition, as noted by GQ’s Will Welch, who previewed the menswear and affirmed that Do precisely convey his intended message from the outset. Similar to his womenswear line, Do’s aesthetic places a strong emphasis on tailoring, rendering the collection essentially unisex and notably sexy. In the fitting process, garments are tested on both genders, with an emphasis on gender-neutral sizing (small, medium, large) rather than traditional numerical sizes.
The showcase comprised 60 looks—one of New York’s more extensive displays—where Do articulated his vision through deconstructed suits, featuring exposed inner workings, minimal ornamentation like tone-on-tone suture stitches, and the versatile two- or three-in-one designs characteristic of his work.
Waistbands were ingeniously adjustable, accommodating various hip sizes, while pleated skirts attached to belts offered open-and-close functionality akin to curtains. Shirts could be worn conventionally buttoned or tied around the waist for a casually undone appearance.
An environmentally conscious innovation featured in the collection was a tank and pants, seemingly crafted from patent leather but ingeniously repurposed from discarded shrimp shells, a byproduct of the food industry. Observing the show were esteemed designers, from Phillip Lim to couturier Ralph Rucci, solidifying Peter Do’s emergence as a noteworthy force in the fashion scene.