He certainly possesses impressive skills in tailoring trousers, doesn’t he? New York’s Peter Do showcased his collection in Paris for the first time, strategically creating distance from his recent Helmut Lang show back home. The move aimed to introduce his work to the European audience and marked a shift for Do, who is known for his ambitious design goals. A newcomer to Peter Do’s creations, impressed by his trouser craftsmanship, made the observation, revealing a discerning taste.
Do harbors significant aspirations, having previously expressed a desire for a creative director role at a European label, a goal he achieved (although Helmut Lang is now under Japan’s Fast Retailing). Despite his high-profile role, Do places great importance on the art of clothing-making itself, a perspective somewhat unconventional in an industry increasingly focused on designers as content creators. Backstage, Do emphasized his commitment to crafting “grown-up clothes.”
In practice, this commitment translated into a departure from the trend of playful short-shorts dominating Milan runways. Do showcased blazers divided into horizontal sections, incorporating a band of silk twill lining with subtle logo details between layers of summer-weight wool. Some jackets were tucked into pants with a similar treatment. While runway styling tricks may not always transition to everyday wear, many pieces stood out, such as midriff-cropped jackets and blazer vests with exaggerated shoulders. The highlight, however, was the striking trousers, with vertical slices down the front revealing bold flashes of red underneath—a testament to Do’s ambition.
The collection also featured softer elements, with halter dresses—ranging from knee-length to ankle-length—boasting provocative sheer insets in front and elegant draped backs, showcasing a new dimension in Do’s design vocabulary. Additionally, pieces from his Banana Republic collaboration, set to hit stores on October 10, were seamlessly integrated. Noteworthy items included a khaki trench with a removable shearling collar and a two-in-one chunky ribbed sweater, contributing to a more relaxed vibe without sacrificing sophistication. It is essential to note that, despite any casual appearance, there’s nothing casual about Do’s unwavering commitment and drive.